A picture-postcard medieval village, Morano Calabro lies within the Pollino National Park in the very north of Calabria along the Basilicata border. Its tightly packed houses along a maze of lanes wrapped around a hill appear like a fairytale, often likened to a nativity scene, in Italian il Presepe del Pollino.
MORANO CALABRO ORIGINS
There are numerous theories as to the derivation of the name Morano Calabro, ranging from a Greek word meaning to come together or to pile up, as a description of the village’s shape, to a Hebrew word for castle, to the completely implausible notion that it was founded by Moors, as the community already existed in Roman times. Calabro was added after unification to distinguish it from Morano sul Po in the Piedmont region.
Historic Morano Calabro
While the specific origins are not clear, Morano Calabro was on the map by the second century BC, as evidenced by an important historic street marker, known as the Lapis Pollae. This marble milestone, discovered in the Province of Salerno, testifies to Morano as a stopping place on the Roman road that went from Capua to Reggio Calabria, the Via Capua–Reghium, also known as the southern route of the Via Popilia, which ran 321 miles (517 km). You can see the Latin name, Muranum, on the fifth line of the Roman marker.
Lapis Pollae, Via Capua–Reghium, Muranum appears on 5th line, 2nd century BC
Morano Calabro sits at an altitude of 700 meters (2300 feet), on the crown of a hill with a panoramic view of the Coscile River valley and a stunning backdrop of the southern side of the Pollino Mountains with its multiple peaks reaching well over 2,000 meters or 7,000 feet. Many accredit the Romans with founding the community, others propose earlier beginnings, such as by the Greeks, the Oenotrians or by prehistoric peoples, as Morano Calabro lies at a natural crossroads. This strategic location has contributed to its ups and downs, and throughout time Morano has been the setting of numerous armed conflicts, such as the 10th-century Saracen attack successfully beaten back by the moranesi, citizens of Morano, who remember the victory today with both its historic coat of arms as well as with an annual reenactment, called the Festa della Bandiera (Festival of the Flag).
Standard of Morano Calabro
NORMAN-SWABIAN CASTLE IN MORANO CALABRO
Shortly after the celebrated triumph over the Saracen aggressors, the Normans entered the scene and built a castle over the remains of a Roman watchtower. This 11th-century construction would be amplified several times, and over many centuries, its defensive walls would be put to the test, as well. Today, the imposing ruins are a picturesque reminder of the Normans, the Swabians and the various feudal lords from medieval times up to the Napoleonic period.
Remains of Norman-Swabian Castle
No longer barred by a drawbridge or moat, access to the castle only requires a modest entrance ticket. The setting is dramatic and the grounds are lovely, flanked by old stone walls and two of the six cylindrical towers from the most recent renovation hundreds of years ago. Part of the structure’s remaining three interior floors gives an idea of the size of the fortification, said to have had the capacity to accommodate a thousand-man garrison that could withstand long periods of siege.
At the castle in Morano Calabro
Views over the tiled-roof community, over the valley and out to the mountains, through empty windows and doors, a vestige of what it once was – although just a shell, the castle still dominates the area, in an inviting way.
View of Morano Calabro from the castle
HISTORIC CENTER OF MORANO CALABRO
Castle district
The community of Morano Calabro developed throughout the Middle Ages and still retains its medieval layout. Houses cover the hillside, seemingly in a jumble. Many in the historic center have been abandoned as the town that boasted close to 10,000 inhabitants at the end of the nineteenth century was drastically reduced to 6,000 through emigration into the early twentieth, and down to just over 4,000 moranesi today.
Maze of streets in the old town
At the heart of this labyrinth of old houses is a delightful initiative to restore the ancient dwellings and to find a way to bring life back to the community. The project Il Nibbio, named after a bird of prey, has established a Museo Naturalistico (nature museum), an Albergo Diffuso (guest lodgings in various buildings), old artisan workshops and even a music lab. Buying up dilapidated properties in the area around the castle, the organization has developed a broad plan of not only restoring the abandoned structures, but of creating a cultural aspect that attracts visitors to the area with lodging and programs geared for all ages.
Animals from the Pollino National Park at the Nature Museum
As Morano Calabro is a jumping off point for activities in the Pollino National Park, Italy’s largest, why not offer a nature museum? Collections of mammals, birds, insects, flora, fauna and even fossils and minerals fill contemporary cases in several of the old structures. I particularly appreciate the exhibit space shared with an ancient fireplace and nooks.
Museo Naturalistico
Many medieval domiciles have been lovingly renovated and are available for rent, complete with stunning mountain views and antique furnishings. Stepping into these little abodes is like going back in time.
Restored house in the old town
A garden bar will whet guests’ whistles and meals prepared with local ingredients can be arranged. And there is a larger house, called Il Convivio del Nibbio (the banquet of the bird of prey), a cozy area for small receptions and even house concerts. Its funky decorations include an old-fashioned brazier, which would have warmed the residents of the old dwellings.
Convivio del Nibbio
CHURCHES OF MORANO CALABRO
As in any Italian community, Morano Calabro has its share of old churches and precious objects within them. The Chiesa dei Santi Apostoli Pietro e Paolo, in the castle district, is one of the oldest, dating from 1007, although its façade and interior reflect later renovations.
Chiesa dei Santi Apostoli Pietro e Paolo
Amongst the artistic highlights are four marble statues of the church’s Apostles Peter and Paul together with the saints Catherine of Alexandria and Lucy by Tuscan sculptor Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the carved wooden altar and pulpit of local artistry, and the silver processional cross.
15th-century processional cross, Chiesa dei Santi Apostoli Pietro e Paolo
Built just outside the original walls, the Collegiata di Santa Maria contains a beautiful polyptych altarpiece of Bartolomeo Vivarini that was commissioned by a Sanseverino feudal lord back in the 15th century for the nearby Monastero di San Bernardino da Siena, also worth a visit while in town, perhaps for the celebration of this patron saint Bernardino of Siena together with the above-mentioned Festa della Bandiera on May 20th.
Polyptych by Vivarini, photo by Gianni Termine
VISIT MORANO CALABRO
Morano Calabro, an historic crossroads
While a visit to Morano Calabro may seem off the beaten path, don’t forget that Muranum was a stop for the Romans heading south, and today, there’s an exit off the A2 highway that goes from Salerno to Reggio Calabria (formerly the A3).
Heading up the hill to the old town
Over 100 years ago, Norman Douglas visited the town and in his Old Calabria complained of the great difficulty in finding a mule for hire. He wrote that he was told mules were “very busy animals in Morano…. Animali occupatissimi.” And I reflect, perhaps they were all assisting the thousands of moranesi headed for Naples on their way to the Americas with their worldly goods loaded on the backs of the classic beast of burden. Interesting that Douglas didn’t put two and two together regarding the scarcity of mules, as he went on to comment, “The men of Morano emigrate to America; two-thirds of the adult and adolescent male population are at this moment on the other side of the Atlantic.” Many landed in Latin America: Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica and Guatemala; and Morano Calabro’s sister city is Brazil’s Porto Alegre, estimated to count 15,000 moranesi amongst its population.
In 1930, M. C. Escher, the Dutch graphic artist, visited Morano Calabro and was inspired by what he saw. The conglomeration of houses growing out of the hillside take on an order and symmetry, blending with both their environment and his creative style.
Morano Calabro by M. C. Escher
Morano Calabro is on the list of I Borghi più belli d’Italia or Italy’s most beautiful villages, one of sixteen in Calabria. Not to be missed on any visit are the local products, in particular the cheeses made from the native sheep and the excellent cured pork products. When will that visit be? It’s apparently in the hands of those greater than ourselves.
Padre Pio statue facing historic Morano Calabro
While in the Pollino Mountains, don’t miss the nearby Grotta del Romito: Prehistoric Art and Grave Sites in Papasidero, and read more about the area in my books Calabria: The Other Italy and Basilicata: Authentic Italy – “Recommended to readers who appreciate all things Italian” by Library Journal.
Comments 21
We stopped here for lunch on our way to Gerace from Ravello. We had a wonderful lunch at Agritourismo Colloreto. We were celebrating my mom’s 80th birthday. We did not get to spend time in the town so hope to go back one day!
Author
What a lovely place to celebrate your mother’s birthday. The old town itself may be a little steep for an 80+, but you can certainly drive up to the castle on your next visit.
Thanks for this. Everything you post is so rich in detail, beautiful photos, and fascinating history–all of which I greatly appreciate. I don’t always comment, but I do always read and enjoy!
Author
So glad you’re enjoying my posts – always great to hear! (Please share your enthusiasm for my blog and books with your friends.)
I read Douglas “Old Calabria” on my way to my father’s village, Cirella di Platí, Reggio Calabria, on the train in 1982. What a cranky old Brit, but it was fun to view the same countryside that he was describing over 100 years ago. His book was published the year my father was born.
Love these historic tours of I Borghi più belli d’Italia that you do, especially in the overlooked, under appreciated Calabria,
Author
Ha, ha, yes, Norman Douglas was certainly a personality, but he was an intrepid traveler and gives a good perspective of the time, infused with his unbridled charisma, of course. And amazing how many of these beautiful villages there are!
So cool – my mother’s parents were from Plati – we stayed in Gerace but made a visit to Plati.
Author
It’s a small world!
Wish we could visit THIS Area! 👍😄
Author
Me, too. Morano Calabro is particularly picturesque and it’s so nice to be amidst the mountains and all they have to offer.
Enjoyed seeing it ALL AGAIN !!! 😄💕🌟
Makes me want to go there! Could I survive on my meager Social Security benefits?
Author
If you meet Italy’s minimum income requirements for a residency permit, you can get by on relatively little in Southern Italy.
Un altro borgo incantevole! Too many places to go when travel is allowed. My list is growing. Morano Calabro looks delectably sketch able. The Escher print is mesmerizing! I love ‘animali occupatissimi’-but you would think Douglas would have figured it out! I thought about reading his book, but he sounds extremely grumpy. Ciao, Cristina
Author
The perfect place for an artist! Norman Douglas is definitely a product of the period and his social class, and at times his statements may be a bit sweeping. However, he did his homework, spoke a ton of languages and he could really wield a pen.
Most of Norman Douglas’s writings are available via the HathiTrust. There are several editions of “Old Calabria” there. Here is a link to the Martin Secker 1920 edition, which you can read for free and not even get up from your chair!
https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc2.ark:/13960/t4sj1g81s&view=1up&seq=7
For those of you with a New York Times subscription, you can read his obituary, which appeared in the 9 February 1952, p 13. He lived on the island of Capri from 1888 on, and that is where he died. The obit states, ” Mr. Douglas evinced cynicism born probably of the disdain for the more stuffy demands of conventionalism in Europe…” The obit refers to a two page review of two books “Siren Land”, and “South Wind,” titled, “Norman Douglas, Novelist and Master of Prose–Through His Several Books Runs a Vein of Ironic Philosophy” https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1952/02/09/84301769.html?pageNumber=13
Well worth reads to get a better understanding of the man.
Author
Thank you, the HathiTrust is an invaluable internet resource. Regarding Douglas, whether or not the reader’s world view aligns with his, he was certainly an intrepid traveler, who took the time to get to know Everyman, and I believe, chronicled his journeys in as honest a manner as he was able.
Where exactly is that statue of Padre Pio located? We’d like to visit it during a visit to Morano Calabro.
Thank you.
Author
The Padre Pio statue is across the street from the Convento dei Cappuccini, which is on Via Nicola de Cardona, 51. Enjoy your visit to Morano Calabro!
Hi, I very much enjoyed you’re writing and description of Morano Colabro. I will be traveling in a few weeks with my adult son to see where our grandparents and great grandparents came from. I’ve never been to Europe and we look forward to our visit to Italy once in a lifetime. My whole life we were told my grandparents came from Naples and I’m just finding now that this is where he’s from I just wanna walk the streets and see where he grew up and left at 17 years old and came to New York . A quick question ,I have one night stay booked was hoping to stay two nights is there enough for me to see since were taking a train and then either a taxi or hire a car to get into the area I’m just wondering if there’s enough to see you there? I would appreciate anything you’d like to share. Thank you, Adriana
Author
You could easily spend a week in this area and not run out of things to see and do, but you will need a car or driver. For example, nearby there is the Arbereshe village of Civita and the archeological site and sanctuary in Papasidero. The nature is also very beautiful if you like hiking.