Fiumefreddo Bruzio, Picturesque Calabrian Village Between Mountains and Sea

Fiumefreddo Bruzio boasts a panorama that stretches from Sicily’s Aeolian Islands along Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coastline in the Province of Cosenza all the way to the mountains of the Cilento in Campania. The medieval old town was established for its strategic position, and today’s visitors can choose from numerous cliffside terraces from which to enjoy the beautiful Southern Italian views.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT FIUMEFREDDO BRUZIO, CALABRIA

My first visit to Fiumefreddo Bruzio was on a Monday. How do I know it was a Monday? Because I wound my way up to the top of the hill to find bars and eating establishments closed. This also meant access to a bathroom. I should have walked through the first open door I saw but it didn’t cross my mind that it was my last opportunity, sometime between noon and one. Afterall, Fiumefreddo Bruzio was one of the Borghi più belli d’Italia, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages. When I realized my error, it was almost too late.

Wandering through the medieval streets, I came to the main piazza and was surprised to find the administrative offices at the town hall open. I would have thought everyone was home eating lunch. “The bathroom is for employees only.” “I apologize for the bother, but would you be able to make an exception? I didn’t realize everything would be closed.” The woman looked at me as though I were the biggest fool she had ever seen. “Of course, everything’s closed, it’s Monday.” At that moment I thought it best not to recommend that the town fathers put a sign at the bottom of the hill: Village closed on Monday. Rather, I did what any good American would do, I offered to pay. Again, I received the exasperated look of the fool, but I was determined to keep her from whatever it was she was doing and started babbling about everything from the weather to finding my way in the town’s maze of streets until she finally acquiesced. And here I must report that it was a clean bathroom, which I left spotless, thanking her with a bow and a scrape as I left the building.

Note to self: Plan ahead, especially outside the summer season and on a rainy or overcast day.

BRIEF HISTORY OF FIUMEFREDDO BRUZIO

Fiumefreddo was named “cold river” for the fresh water that emerges from the rock close to the sea. The Latin root indicates an early settlement of which can only be surmised. In the 11^th century, the area was occupied by the Normans whose Robert Guiscard built a defensive tower. Shortly thereafter, the tower was transformed into a castle and over the years the town’s feudal lands were passed from one baron to another. In 1638, Fiumefreddo was hit with a devastating earthquake, and in 1807 the castle was destroyed by Napoleonic forces as it was a stronghold of Bourbon troops.

Bruzio was added in 1860 to distinguish it from other towns with the same name. The Bruzi, or Bruttians in English, were an ancient people who lived in the area.

VISIT FIUMEFREDDO BRUZIO

Many travelers discover Fiumefreddo Bruzio on their hurry from the Amalfi coast down to Taormina. They don’t expect to find anything in-between, except for maybe a nice beach and a great meal. Well, that’s because they haven’t read my book Calabria: The Other Italy or one of my many blogposts, such as, Is there anything to see in Calabria? Or they haven’t consulted the list of the Borghi più belli d’Italia.

Sitting on a hill between the sea and the mountains, Fiumefreddo Bruzio offers the best of both worlds, from a refreshing dip in the Tyrrhenian Sea to a lovely walk in a beech forest of the Catena Costiera, a 73-kilometer coastal chain in the Province of Cosenza. Who knew?

The “Borghi più belli d’Italia” organization characterizes Fiumefreddo Bruzio with the phrase “rovina e rinascita”– ruins and rebirth. Strolling through the old lanes with glimpses of the medieval town walls, you get that sense of a faded glory: historic palazzi with magnificent doorways and interior courtyards that once hosted carriages of the rich and famous, shadows of their former selves and ready for revivification.

FIUMEFREDDO BRUZIO’S CASTLE

The castle of Fiumefreddo or “Castello della Valle” anchors the village, suspended in time. It has seen better days, but the striking fortification stands proudly, silhouetted against the sea, hills and sky, its natural stone walls evoking past epochs.

Access to the castle is through the late Renaissance portal, once a drawbridge, today a walkway.

While a shell of its former self, open to the sky, hints of wealth and elegance can be seen in the architectural features that remain. Layers of history through every doorway. Views in every direction, the romantic ruins beg to be photographed. Inland, towards the lush forests of the coastal chain.

Out to the sea.

And over the village.

While the structure above ground reflects past traumas, parts below have been renovated and function as exhibit areas and conference rooms.

SALVATORE FIUME

In 1975, a Sicilian artist by the name of Salvatore Fiume (1915-1997) happened upon Fiumefreddo Bruzio, and perhaps there was some sort of destiny associated with his name or maybe it’s just a coincidence, but he was captivated and inspired to create murals and sculptures, his contribution to revitalize the town. Over his career, Fiume had engaged in a variety of artistic endeavors, with work ranging from theater and costume design for La Scala and Covent Garden to paintings in collections of New York’s Museum of Modern Art, the Hermitage and the Vatican museums, not to mention the large mural in the Andrea Doria’s first-class dining room that went down with the ship.

In one of the large castle spaces, Fiume created his “La stanza dei desideri” or the room of desires.

Back in the 70s, the room was roofless. In 1996 when Fiume returned to restore the frescos, a protective glass covering was added. The image subjects feature medieval life as well as the story of a beautiful Calabrian woman enslaved by Turks. Despite the roof, the frescos have continued to deteriorate.

Pastoral representations and fleshy, female figures are themes.

At times, a bit provocative…

FIUME SCULPTURE IN FIUMEFREDDO BRUZIO

Not to be missed is Fiume’s bronze sculpture “La ragazza del surf” (1978). Or perhaps better said, you can’t miss the “Surfer Girl,” with her sturdy frame planted on an angled board, arms spread, hovering over a fountain, posed in the middle of the piazza with the sea behind. I imagine a few jaws must have dropped when the sculpture was placed in the village 45 years ago.

At the same time, Fiume contributed another bronze sculpture to the town, a large two-sided coin, “Il Medaglione della Fortuna.” The “Medallion of Fortune” presents another woman, in this case riding a cornucopia of gold coins, and the artist’s message on the reverse wishes what he sees as the greatest fortune – that the woman you love falls in love with you…

CHURCHES AND PALAZZI IN FIUMEFREDDO BRUZIO

Musing on Salvatore Fiume’s images can take you right into San Rocco Church, which was constructed in the 17^th-century into the medieval city walls. His 1970’s interpretation of the saint greets you at the door, and waiting for you inside, you’ll find a depiction of St. Rocco dressed as a brigand as well as his frescos in the cupola. (See my blogpost Italy Travel Post-Covid and Masks.)

Other churches are sandwiched between lanes of the old town.

No matter how narrow the streets, the locals always seem to be able to find a spot to park their cars.

Elaborate portals hint at a lavish past.

Others make you wonder if someone inside started the little plant in the pail outside the door or if it appeared spontaneously.

Some corners show full signs of life.

FIUMEFREDDO BRUZIO TOUR

So, did I ever find anything to eat on that fateful Monday? Well, I called a friend who called a friend, who came to the rescue with a wonderful sandwich on homemade bread filled with delicious local products. Thank you, Alessandra Porto, also for the wonderful tour of your village. It’s always great to get a local’s perspective.

Would you like to visit Fiumefreddo Bruzio? Join my new Castles and Wines of Calabria Tour – it’s on the itinerary! And don’t worry about the day of the week. I’ll make a few calls and we’ll be greeted with open arms!

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Join me on one of my comprehensive, small group tours of Calabria or Basilicata. Immerse yourself in the beauty, taste the incredible food, and soak up the culture first hand – and catch your own glimpse of picturesque laundry in Italy! See the detailed itineraries on the Calabria Tour page and Basilicata Tour page.

Read all about the fascinating Calabrian region in my book Calabria: The Other Italy, described by Publisher’s Weekly as “an intoxicating blend of humor, joy, and reverence for this area in Italy’s deep south,” and explore Calabria’s northern neighbor in my book Basilicata: Authentic Italy, “recommended to readers who appreciate all things Italian” by the Library Journal.

Follow me on social media: Basilicata Facebook page, Calabria: The Other Italy’s Facebook page, Karen’s Instagram and Karen’s Twitter for beautiful pictures and information.
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