THE CITY OF LAUNDRY The first thing I noticed about Cosenza was the laundry. It was a beautiful day. Linens, T-shirts, jeans and intimates hung from windows like garland on a tree. This was a living city. “Matrimonial” sheets from king-sized beds (letti matrimoniali), folded lengthwise to fit along the wrought iron balconies, flapped against the antique edifices.