FRIENDS OF THE NATIVITY I grew up with a beautiful hand-carved Italian manger scene that was as prominent in our living room as the live fir tree standing across from it. The wooden pieces were quite large and I particularly liked the animals, but I understood they weren’t toys. My sisters and I had a smaller nativity we could set …
Joachim Murat in Calabria
THE FALL OF MURAT IN PIZZO “Straight to the heart, but spare the face!” These were the final instructions Joachim Murat gave to his firing squad on October 13th, 1815, according to his wife’s memoirs, although Caroline Bonaparte wasn’t actually in attendance that fateful day in Pizzo as her husband and former King of Naples looked down the barrels of …
Certosa di Serra San Bruno
LUMINARIES From time to time, the monastery in Serra San Bruno has hosted noteworthy guests. However, the rumor that one of the pilots who dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima sought spiritual refuge within its walls is just that. Apparently, the discrepancy can be traced back to a false media report. The American military man who took the habit in …
Cosenza: Old and New
THE CITY OF LAUNDRY The first thing I noticed about Cosenza was the laundry. It was a beautiful day. Linens, T-shirts, jeans and intimates hung from windows like garland on a tree. This was a living city. “Matrimonial” sheets from king-sized beds (letti matrimoniali), folded lengthwise to fit along the wrought iron balconies, flapped against the antique edifices.
Gambarie, Garibaldi and a Day in the Aspromonte Mountains
GAMBARIE Calabria’s dramatic landscape imparts more than a stunning panorama. Back in time, the mountains served as an escape from Arab marauders and malaria. Today, they’re a place for coastal dwellers and visitors seeking recreational getaways – skiing in the winter, hiking in the warmer months and a sought after refuge from the summer heat.
The Impromptu Invitation and Due Spaghetti
“CI FACCIAMO DUE SPAGHETTI” Italians love pasta. They eat it every day. It’s economical, practical and can be whipped up at the drop of a hat. It’s also a great dish to be shared socially as an additional plate can always be filled, thus allowing liberal opportunity for the impromptu dinner invitation.
Three Classic Books on Calabria
CALABRIAN TRAVELOGUES If you do any search of books about Calabria, there are three titles that will invariably come up: Journals of a Landscape Painter in Southern Calabria (1852) by Edward Lear, By the Ionian Sea: Notes of a Ramble in Southern Italy (1901) by George Gissing and Old Calabria (1915) by Norman Douglas.
Calabrian Eateries: Chinese Food in Italy
AN EVENING OF CHINESE CULTURE I had been looking for an excuse to go to the Chinese restaurant in downtown Reggio for some time. I had passed it on numerous occasions – a cozy establishment with wood paneling and white tablecloths that seemed to be frequented by younger adults. So one evening after a very enjoyable presentation on Chinese culture …
Contemporary Interpretations of the Riace Bronzes
The Bronzes of Riace are famous in Italy, more so in Calabria. The tourist board uses their images at every chance they get, and it’s understandable as the statues are truly magnificent. A number of artists have also been inspired by their splendor to create works of their own.
The ‘Ndrangheta
CALABRIA AND CRIMINALITY When I set out to write Calabria: The Other Italy, my goal was to give a contemporary picture of the region, which like any place, included the good and the not so good. I documented my experiences as well as current and past events that had affected and shaped the people and their environment.








